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Re: [johnwesely] Smooth moves:
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spikeddem
Aug 8, 2011, 6:33 PM
Views: 5625
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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johnwesely wrote: gunkiemike wrote: joemac3 wrote: I have seen myself climb and notice all my moves tend to look forced, like I am throwing to each hold and using strength not finesse to make my moves. You mean like in your avatar pic? That's some pretty sorry body control going on there. I suspect what you may be missing is the core strength needed to stabilize your body during movement. Work on your core and see what happens. Work on your core is probably some of the weakest advice I have ever heard. When I sport climb, I like the routes to be really steep, but my core is never my point of failure. However, I can't even complete a single set of any pilates exercise or do more than a few reps on a captains chair. By all measurements, my "core" is fairly weak and has extremely poor endurance, but my feet never cut, even on really steep routes. Climbing strength is far too nebulous to be improved by "core" exercises.
To be fair, feet cutting is, like, the MOST drastic symptom of failing to maintain tension. Even a two inch sag on a crux move can mean failure. Accordingly, a one inch sag over several moves can worsen a pump.
Edit: He may not be missing core strength, but perhaps core coordination.
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Aug 8, 2011, 6:34 PM)
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on Aug 8, 2011, 6:34 PM
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