Aug 18, 2011, 12:17 AM
Registered: May 11, 2009
I love cordalettes, I've been using them for years, but we now know that a cordalette doesn't equalize for shi* when loaded off-center. Even just a inch or two off center. So while it's all well & good for most climbs and TR anchors, it is in great need of a replacement for trad traverses and crappy pro that needs a decent distribution of the load.
If you don't care, use the cordalette for everything. You probably won't die, and will more likely never climb anything sketchy enough to need equalization. Good for you.
No one's telling you what anchor to use, this is The Lab, and we're discussing theory.
(This post was edited by Neoshade on Aug 18, 2011, 12:18 AM)