Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [Neoshade] Stupid Simple Elette: Edit Log




patto


Aug 18, 2011, 2:49 AM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1452

Re: [Neoshade] Stupid Simple Elette
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Neoshade wrote:
Also, extension causing "shock loading" and "significantly" higher forces has been debunked a long time ago. Jim Ewing at Sterling Ropes conducted load cell testing completely disproving the idea, showing there is almost no concern over small amounts of extension (a foot or less), that overall force was not increased during tests where a piece blew, and that "shock loading" is a vague term that doesn't apply to a system involving an elastic climbing rope.
Read Climbing Anchors by John Long. All that testing is in the book, the book which starting all this new anchor discussion.

Thinking that shock loading has been debunked is highly dangerous! It has not been. Shock loads can easily result in forces 10-20 times higher, this has been shown repeatedly in testing*. *Testing of masses taking high factor falls on static cord/sling.

The testing discussed was fundamentally flawed as there was no mass on the belay. High school physics would tell you that without a mass on the belay the 'shock loading' isn't a problem. However as soon as you add a mass to the belay such as a 80kg belayer then suddenly extension on the anchor becomes a big concern.

As far as your design goes Neoshade I have no issue with it. However I do wish to impress upon you and others that J. Long's book is highly misleading regarding 'debunking' shock loading.

Anyway I'll try to step away from the discussion. Smile


(This post was edited by patto on Aug 18, 2011, 8:49 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Aug 18, 2011, 8:49 AM


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