Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [Neoshade] Stupid Simple Elette: Edit Log




billl7


Aug 18, 2011, 5:59 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [Neoshade] Stupid Simple Elette
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JimTitt wrote:
Canīt see itīs equalised anyway, looks like 50/25/25 to me.
Equalising the right pieces by nylon sliding on nylon, youīre joking right?
Increased loading with increasing extension is inevitable, is real and not to be ignored.
Use the rope or clove hitches.

Jim

+1 on all the above points.

I used the equalette and a variation of it for quite a while. I've pretty much gone back to simpler means.

It is worth repeating that the primary anchor quality is bomber individual pieces. If there aren't good placements: continue the climb until there are, downclimb until there are, bail on a couple of the iffy placements*, or consider finding a very good stance and hope your partner won't be too pissed.

Bill L

* Edit: If you really feel like you've gotten yourself into a situation where you must use them, equalize two or three and rap (endanger only yourself).


(This post was edited by billl7 on Aug 18, 2011, 6:31 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Aug 18, 2011, 6:31 AM


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