Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse?: Edit Log




essay


Aug 18, 2011, 4:02 PM

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Registered: May 23, 2011
Posts: 99

Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse?
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ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Depends on the availability of rests between cruxes.

I didn't think that would be a factor tbh. I hope you were not pulling my leg since im about to explain them ;p.

After the first cave with 2 cruxes spaning say 5m you get a kinde v4 ish rest poistion. Then theirs about 4-5M more climbing with another crux followed by 1M of peak v5 climbing into another kinda v4 rest position. Then you go on to some more peak v5 climbing into the main cave roof crux, after down climbing into the cave you get a shity rest on say 45 degree overhanging around v5 ish kinda holds. Then then heading out of the cave the climbing stays at v5 but gets progressively easier as the rock begins to straighten out for the last 8-10m or so.

I will more likely add more cruxes to the last run out but for now i have enough, and unable to link it all yet so ;p.

Sry, the first crux section has 3 in it. Fail visulisation skills their ;p.

This rant says your cruxes are v5. It does not say v6 or v7.

That is a huge difference on an endurance climb, so which is it? If you have 5 V6/7 in your route with no great rests, it's gonna at least be a 5.13+, maybe harder.

If you have five v5 in your route it will be a 12+ or 12- BASED ON THE RESTS.

You give people advice and talk down to them all the time, you even say your gonna piss on my head from above me because you are such an awesome climber, but you think that rests on an endurance route have no meaning? WOW. Man, I am gonna remember this rant!


(This post was edited by essay on Aug 18, 2011, 4:03 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by essay () on Aug 18, 2011, 4:03 PM


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