Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse?: Edit Log


Aug 18, 2011, 5:10 PM

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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse?
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ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
I agree with essay (and everyone else that has posted) as far as the importance of rests (or lack thereof) in grading your route.

Ok so a v6 move to me is a v2 to all you guys.. really, i don't care?

Well, we don't intend to downgrade your ratings. We're just saying that the rating is going to be quite high if there is as serious a lack of rests as you say there are.

Look at a route like Kick Me In The Jimmie at the RRG. There's probably no sequence on there harder than V2, but it's rated 5.12a because there are no great rests if 5.12a is your limit.

Now compare that with your route: 25 meters of sustained V4 climbing with V5 and V6 cruxes (as many as five?) in there. Take the same idea that goes into grading Kick Me in the Jimmie, and you'll see that your route would probably be graded quite highly.

ceebo wrote:
Just tell me what grade you would give to the below please ;/.

5 v6 cruxes
v4-5 climbing inbetween cruxes
3 rests.

Depends on the quality and placement of the rests.

(This post was edited by spikeddem on Aug 18, 2011, 5:12 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Aug 18, 2011, 5:11 PM
Post edited by spikeddem () on Aug 18, 2011, 5:12 PM

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