Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP: Edit Log


Aug 21, 2011, 7:55 AM

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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
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Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP
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Im a little confused by what you mean when you say 1 'rep' of repeaters. Are you doing one 6-8 second hang and then resting for 1 minute? Basically when doing repeaters you want to hang 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off; that's one rep. do that 6 times, that's 1 set, between sets a 3 minute rest is generally what you want to aim for. If you've only been climbing 6 months this will likely lead to injury before you see any strength gains. With so little experience, the hangboard is not really something you should be super focused on. If i were you, I'd put time into technique drills (see The Self-Coached Climber) then trying to blast strength exercises, as it's mostly likely your shoddy footwork, thrutching, and imprecision that's holding you back (I'm not trying to be an asshoe, but trust my, 6 months in; you exhibit all of these traits).

If you simply MUST hangboard, I'd stick with the easiest workout that Metolius prescribes. None of the hangboard workouts that come with your board are super awesome, but if I were you, I'd focus on building a base before you start tweaking the workouts, and just looking at what you've listed below as the hangboard routine you've been doing, you should realy focus on building that base. Just remember taht muscle matures much much faster that tendon strength, so even though you may feel "strong", overdoing it on a hangboard when you're 6 months in is a surefire way to injure yourself.

You could have a look at the Moon Climbing and Nicros sites, most of the stuff they talk about is probably going to be alittle more advanced than you want to attempt right now, but dial it back a couple (dozen) notches and it could be applicable. There's also some descent info about injury prevention and recovery out there. Read it.

Good luck!

(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Aug 21, 2011, 7:56 AM)

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Post edited by rhythm164 () on Aug 21, 2011, 7:56 AM

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