Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?: Edit Log


Aug 22, 2011, 1:38 AM

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Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?
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johnwesely wrote:
What are some useful ways I can increase my training volume without risking over training?

ok i assume you can't do the most obvious thing : a second day out on the weekend.

that said it seems that in technical sports* (eg gymnastics) and in strenght training** (eg lifting), choppimg the same weekly volume of hard work into several smaller sessions is beneficial over having fewer, longer ones.
The frequency seems more important than the volume...

so if you have two indoor sessions of two hours with, i make an assumption, 1h for warmup/cooldown and 1h for harder climbing...
try having three sessions of 1h40' : same warmup/cooldown, 2/3 of the hard climbing per session.

this way you will :
-increase the frequency

-keep the same weekly volume of hard moves

-increase the weekly volume of easy moves, which won't make you sore but will make you ready for more hard training later on, and might even give some technical benefits if you do it properly.
(always practice technical drills on warmup/cooldown!!!)

*don't remember where i've read so, but the rationale is that you practice more often so your brain remembers complex movements better from a session to the next...and because you never get to the point where you train to exhaustion, you only make high-quality executions.
On the contrary if you do bigger sessions with more recovery days in between, on one side you will practice when tired in the last part of the session and break up your technique, on the other during the rest days your brain will start to "forget" some subtleties of the movement...

**goes under the name of "grease the groove" approach. google for "grease the groove for strenght" if you're interested

(This post was edited by ghisino on Aug 22, 2011, 1:41 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Aug 22, 2011, 1:39 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Aug 22, 2011, 1:41 AM

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