Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?: Edit Log


Aug 22, 2011, 1:21 PM

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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?
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johnwesely wrote:
What are some useful ways I can increase my training volume without risking over training?

Just a couple ideas...

Keep a good training log and you'll know exactly how many routes/problems you worked or sent from week to week. I think if you divide your total weekly training volume over 4 days instead of 3, then add in an extra route or two per day, you'll be able to increase weekly volume pretty easily.

If you're climbing 2 days in a row, try to do the more intense climbing on the first day. For example, hard bouldering on day 1 (strength/power), then laps on routes on day 2 (endurance/stamina). I've found that some easier route climbing can help to loosen up stiff, sore bouldering fingers.

Any pocket that accommodates less than 3 fingers and small crimps are evil. Avoid hard, repetitive use of those types of holds. Become a sloper master.

(This post was edited by mr.tastycakes on Aug 22, 2011, 1:23 PM)

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Post edited by mr.tastycakes () on Aug 22, 2011, 1:23 PM

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