Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [Guran] O-n-O lockers unsafe?: Edit Log




Partner rgold


Aug 25, 2011, 6:42 AM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: [Guran] O-n-O lockers unsafe?
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guran wrote:
In the thread that I linked to it was suggested that using two lockers with gates to the same side is safer than the same lockers o-n-o.

Nonsense. The whole point of opposing the gates is so that nothing, anticipated or not, can simultaneously open both gates. Opposed gates has been the standard, as far as I know, for longer than lockers were commonly employed.

As for wear, I'll believe that when someone shows me hard data. And I'd guess that loading has the opposite effect from pinching, aligning the biners so the rope is on the broadest part of both.

Edit: I missed something with the last comment above. I was assuming gates on opposite sides but both biners oriented normally. I can't see any good reason for also "opposing" them, if that is the appropriate term, and it is true that in that case the narrow end of one of the "D's" will be part of the rope-bearing surface, potentially contributing ever so slightly to additional sheath wear.

Until shown real contrary evidence, I'd say the differences are negligible, but lots of lowering through biners does (or at least used to) wear the sheath. I knew guides who constantly top-roped who used beefy rescue pulleys instead of biners to cut down on that wear.

When I was guiding (and that was a long time ago), I almost never (as a matter of philosophy) used top-ropes, but when I did I used three carabiners with the middle gate on the other side from the two outer gates---all biners oriented properly. in the current context, this seems to have something to satisfy everyone.


(This post was edited by rgold on Aug 25, 2011, 9:19 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on Aug 25, 2011, 9:19 AM


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