Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [rescueman] O-n-O lockers unsafe?: Edit Log


Aug 25, 2011, 10:00 PM

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Registered: Dec 20, 2004
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Re: [rescueman] O-n-O lockers unsafe?
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rescueman wrote:
But I continue to assert that the reason we use two carabiners in a top rope belay, even when no longer needed for security, is to increase the overall bend radius (effective sheave diameter) and decrease the probability of damaging the rope fibers.
No way! The master point on a TR is a single point of catastrophic failure of the system. The amount of motion at that point and the fact that it is unattended is the real reason it often receives two carabiners. Carabiners connecting belay/rappel devices can be checked and managed by the user. A toprope anchor master point cannot. It could be a misguided attempt to avoid friction for you but everyone else I have ever met who uses two opposed biners does so to prevent any event that could free the rope from the system. An experienced climber can understand when two biners are superflous or supersitious. Beginners should continue to learn rules that will ultimately contribute to an increased level of safety in situations they cannot properly judge. Through experience everyone learns why rules can be bent or broken.

(This post was edited by benj on Aug 25, 2011, 10:05 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by benj () on Aug 25, 2011, 10:05 PM

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