Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [rescueman] O-n-O lockers unsafe?: Edit Log


Aug 25, 2011, 10:34 PM

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Registered: Dec 20, 2004
Posts: 41

Re: [rescueman] O-n-O lockers unsafe?
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You may not have argued against using two carabiners but you did incorrectly identify the reason for their use as being more about friction than security. Climbers make regular use of directionals to reduce the possibility of severing/damaging the rope but in some situations where this cannot be properly mitigated use a twin/half rope setup. Noobs may not TR at a crag on halfs, but plenty of people second a leader (essentially TRing) who has climbed on half ropes. Rope severing flakes/edges are usually a more obvious hazard to beginners. The issue is really about understanding how systems work, change and fail; the factors that contribute to odd/surprising/catastrophic behavior of system and their likelihood. Many beginners simply cannot understand that bump on a vertical wall could open a locking carabiner and because of that are admonished to use two biners.

Under proper use harnesses, knots, belay devices and carabiners do not fail. There is no logical reason to treat them as suspect.

(This post was edited by benj on Aug 25, 2011, 10:46 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by benj () on Aug 25, 2011, 10:36 PM
Post edited by benj () on Aug 25, 2011, 10:39 PM
Post edited by benj () on Aug 25, 2011, 10:46 PM

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