Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?: Edit Log




ghisino


Aug 26, 2011, 2:23 AM

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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 246

Re: [johnwesely] Increasing Training Volume?
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depends on your background and your objectives really.

i'd say give it a proper test before even asking yourself if it is "right" and, more importantly, right for what...

to "test" i'd train 3 weeks that way, take an easier 4th week, and then try to climb 2 days in a row in the weekend, just to see what it feels like.
("how am i doing on "hard" tries? how many climbs/tries can i handle during the day? how do i feel on my 2nd day? am i unusually good at some style? how big/small is the gap between my flash grade and my limit?")



then, personally speaking : the kind of stuff you are doing sounds quite similar to my average "base" work for bouldering or shorter PE.
the kind of stuff i do when i just want to be in a fairly good shape all the time and possibly see small steady gains, i.e 80% of my year.

The nice thing of training that way is that i only need a focused cycle of roughly 3 weeks if i want to have a strenght or short PE peak (prime conditions, close to a project, trip).

The only thing it not good for is longer stamina routes. For those i seem to need a different base, so first i need to change my base work for a while (basically : 90% easyish volume), and then i can think about peaking. If i don't do that, i tend to overpower moves a little and don't recover well enough once a good pump has set in...


(This post was edited by ghisino on Aug 26, 2011, 2:24 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Aug 26, 2011, 2:24 AM


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