Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [RoryMcMahon] Finger injuries: Edit Log


Sep 1, 2011, 2:50 AM

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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
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Re: [RoryMcMahon] Finger injuries
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RoryMcMahon wrote:
My foreams and upperback aren't where I want them too be.

if you are new to the sport (less than 2 years in it) this approach is a recipe for disaster dude.

first you neet to grow stronger pulleys and tendons. That is best done with tons of low-intensity work and that's what i mean when i say that "you need to build a physical base"

you need to because your hands are not made for climbing. You are a human, you are built for walking. You are not a monkey.

if you build your pulling muscles from the start, without being patient for those fuckin 2 years of "boring easy climbing", you have two scenarios :
a) you're lucky to have a fair share of monkey genes, or you've done another hand-intense activity before (lots of masturbation with both hands?) and so your pulleys and other soft tissues are already at the required level.
Bingo, in 2 years you'll be crushing, at least on the finger and campus boards (and also on actual climbing if you have a real talent for learning body movement)

b)you get injuried, possibly very badly all at once, possibly many small repeated injuries.

then you can decide that you don't plan to stay in the sport for very long so want to give it your best shot over the next three, four years before moving to another thing.

Perfectly legit, just let me tell you that i've been training long enough to see several dudes get into climbing and making the bet...
The odds are something like 1 real champion and a couple of campus freak shows who climb like a pile of shit every 10 climbers that go for that "i want it all i want it now" approach to the sport.
That means that 7 out of 10 either lose interest very quickly (broken egos?) or get injuried.

I am being honest and i have nothing to lose or win in giving you such advice. I have no interest whatsoever in "holding you back" and nobody has.

the other approach of 2 easy years can make you leave the sport out ove boredom but won't prevent later success if you stay in it, and most importantly, is a bet with greater odds in your favor, because you're at least fixing the "not built for climbing" issue.
I have been climbing at the same exact level i've started at for 5 years and that did not hold me from making fast progress as soon as i started training hard. ***
Do you get that the rocket-fast improvement has been made possible by the fundmentals that those 5 years had laid down, in terms of technique, "feel", experience, and fingers' resistance to improper use such as, uhm, rock climbing?

You have elements for an informed decision. Just make it and stop whining.

***(from 5.10 to 5.12 in 6 months of bouldering gym. 13a in 3 years. But 9 years after my first gym ride my best redpoint is "only" 13b...which should tell you what kind of learning curve you should expect, and should also tell you that no matter what level you can potentially reach, if your biggest drive is seeking a performance improvement over time, one day you will get seriously frustrated)

(This post was edited by ghisino on Sep 1, 2011, 3:20 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 2:55 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:03 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:04 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:06 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:09 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:18 AM
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 1, 2011, 3:20 AM

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