Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [JoeNYC] One arm dead-hangs and bouldering: Edit Log


Sep 2, 2011, 8:27 AM

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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249

Re: [JoeNYC] One arm dead-hangs and bouldering
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well i'm convinced that i've *ruined* my two shoulders (conflict on one side, subluxation on the other) within a single season of one armed hang crazyness, so i might be overcareful.

I was overly interested in setting hangboard PR so i ended up hanging straight-armed (it is easier than keeping tension and allows you to hold someting smaller)

mind that when it really matters i am keen to take risks (pulling a bit too hard, training through pain, etc).
On at least a couple of occasions i even managed to get minor pulley tears exactly during the actual redpoint ascent. And proudly took it as the proof that the route/boulder was "truly at my limit"

it is just that in my scheme of things one armed hangs do not matter that much and i believe that i can get the same training stimulus in a safer way (asym)

(This post was edited by ghisino on Sep 2, 2011, 8:29 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Sep 2, 2011, 8:29 AM

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