Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [sidereus7] Techniques for Short People: Edit Log


Sep 13, 2011, 6:25 PM

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Registered: May 12, 2003
Posts: 71

Re: [sidereus7] Techniques for Short People
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The OP didn’t specify whether the particular problem with the out-of-reach hold was indoors or out. On natural rock, being short isn’t any excuse at all. In most all cases there will be more to work with than found on gym walls.

The situation can be quite different in a gym. Gym routes can be designed and set to force climbers to practice specific techniques and body positions. A good training route might include wide spacing of holds if foot and hand holds are thoughtfully positioned to let the climber set up for a dyno. Unfortunately, my experience is that too many route setters lack the skill or the experience to create such routes. Instead, they simply throw in reachy moves in an attempt to make mediocre routes more difficult. If you’re dealing with such a route, skip it. Don’t waste your time; instead, ask yourself just what you learn from such a route (probably nothing.)

Shorter climbers do just fine when they learn to incorporate flexibility and power into their technique. Try working those elements into the time you spend in a gym. Following on what Mr. T suggested, practice dynamic movement by transferring momentum upward from the feet (it doesn’t have to be a full dyno or throw). Learning efficient weight transfer as you rock onto a high step is another critical skill. Discover how to drive through with the knee as you shift over your foot. Another skill to try is rolling your hips as you extend your reach on the opposite side. This is like the above-described “look-away” move, but the movement is initiated primarily in the hips, not in head and shoulders. You might also look for some good bouldering moves where you can practice lock-offs and shooting your body upward in full extension. All these techniques will stand you in good stead at the crags and in the process of learning them you’ll do just fine on indoor routes. (At least on the ones worth doing.)

(This post was edited by rhei on Sep 14, 2011, 10:21 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rhei () on Sep 14, 2011, 10:20 AM
Post edited by rhei () on Sep 14, 2011, 10:21 AM

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