Sep 18, 2011, 3:13 AM
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Last weekend i finally managed to get out again.
~4 hours approach
one of the few huts in the alps that are not full blown hotels
Thats all nice and good, but:
We knew that there where at max 4 pitons in the whole 11 pitches. And given that those where probably from 1921 (from the looks, they indeed where) a full trad rack was demanded.
And thats where the problems start. 11 pitches is not too much, and it was only 5.8 at max, but still we knew
a) we hat to be rather fast, because we did not want to get caught in the wall, or even at the descent by the forecasted thunderstorm
b) we didnt really have a clue what kind of gear we needed. Guidebook just said full rack of stoppers, cams and a bunch of slings
So we took 1.5 sets of nuts, and a full set of camalots from .3 to 2, with doubles for .75, 1 and 2, 8 slings/long QDs, bunch of 120cm slings, and a hand full of lockers and some assorted crap + emergency hammer+pitons, rain jacket, 1l of water per person, some granola bars, rainjacket and shoes for the descent.
Damn, that crap was heavy!
And in the way all the times!
And a bitch to manage on the harness!
And of those few pieces we needed we didnt have enough (hence at max we placed 3 pieces per pitch, but we didnt want to place much more anyways, since that would have slowed us down even more) and most of the stuff was useless anyways!
And when i read around here, it seems like this actually was a fairly minimal rack.
How the fuck do you climb with all that shit?
Are you all total super heros that dont mind the extra wheight at all?
Is 'trad' in fact a codeword for "hiking with the occasional steep step" and no one climbs harder than 5.8 anyways?
Or are the cliches true that all americans are in fact that fat that a few dozend extra pounds simply do not get noticed while you are landwhaling your blorted self up that multi day, with artificial oxigen 3 pitches 5.2 rx trad testpieces just right next to the NASCAR track?
I am demanding an explanation!
(This post was edited by qwert on Sep 18, 2011, 3:14 AM)