Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [qwert] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Sep 18, 2011, 10:10 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [qwert] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?
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12 draws/slings
1 set of link cams and blue/purple TCU (or swap with camalots) and MAYBE a #3 camalot
1 set of nuts
1 set of tricams
1 6 oz wind or rain shell
1 R1 style fleece
water depending on route
power bars
MAYBE 5 oz down jacket or 13 oz synth hoody
MAYBE a light bullet pack
first aid kit, matches
cell phone

the above will get me up the vast majority of 5.8 or less routes ... its actually overkill IMO as it gives double cams and nuts (tricams can be used as either) ...

you only need double cams at 5.10 or above IMO, or if the route specifically requires wide gear ... usually the stances are good enough at the lower grades to easily place and remove tricams/nuts

the tricams save a lot of weight ... a full set equivalent to the camalot 0.3-2 weight less than 400g

the other alternative is to use solely tricams, nuts and a few TCUs, i would do this for many of the 5.8 or below routes down here .... or even bring singles

if yr confident ... unless its sustained 5.8 climbing, and 5.8 trad is your limit, or its sandbagged to hell ... you place less gear and move faster

the people who move fast in squamish, and i suspect the rest of the world, simply put very little gear in except at the cruxes ... obviously there is a risk there .... i know people who do easy 18+ pitch 5.9 routes up the chief with no more than slings, 6 draws and a full set of nuts ...

the question to ask is did u place all that gear ... and if you did, did you really need to?

and make sure everything is as light as possible, im not a gram weenie ... but my 6 oz rain shell that replaced my 26 oz one means 4 #1 camalots or 1/2 liter of water ... etc ...


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 18, 2011, 10:37 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 18, 2011, 10:15 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 18, 2011, 10:16 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 18, 2011, 10:22 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 18, 2011, 10:36 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 18, 2011, 10:37 AM


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