Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [Dip] Not quite as planned... but good: Edit Log




sethg


Sep 19, 2011, 7:26 AM

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Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 132

Re: [Dip] Not quite as planned... but good
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2 days of climbing in the Adirondacks this weekend. First time climbing in the 'Dacks for me except for my one time at Rogers Rock. I can't believe it took so long for me to finally do it.

Day 1 at Poke-O, finding out I don't know how to crack climb and gaining a deep respect for John Turner and his routes. We did Gamesmanship 5.8+ (first four pitches), The Sting 5.8, Bloody Mary 5.9+ (first two pitches) & P.T. Pillar 5.8+. My partner Adrian led the harder pitches-- I led Ps 2 & 4 of Gamesmanship and the easy P1 of Bloody Mary. But after feeling like I should have led The Sting and could possibly have led P2 of Bloody Mary, I took the sharp end for P.T. Pillar and really struggled up the awkward 5.8+ corner. Took a hang in the middle. Then my partner Adrian turned the other way as the second and just sailed up it. Grrrrr.

Day 2 at Upper Washbowl. Undaunted, I took on the first (5.8) pitch of Hesitation, another vertical-crack-in-a-corner pitch. I took forever to lead it, with an abundance of the namesake hesitation, but got it done with no falls or hangs. The rest of the 4-pitch climb went well. Then we did Ps 1 & 2 of the 5.6 Weissner Route (very impressive for 1938!), to the final pitch of Partition (5.9-). I fell seconding Partition at the wet upper crux but I was proud to have jammed the whole thing. Maybe I'm finally starting to catch on to this vertical crack thing.

Great, amazing routes, a very educational weekend.


(This post was edited by sethg on Sep 19, 2011, 11:06 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sethg () on Sep 19, 2011, 11:06 AM


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