Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Kino_no_Tabi] Daily workout: Edit Log


Sep 26, 2011, 11:13 AM

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Registered: Dec 19, 2003
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Re: [Kino_no_Tabi] Daily workout
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If you search the board you'll find dozens of posts similar to yours. The common response is that is great that you're excited about climbing, but as a beginner, you should temper you're enthusiasm to avoid overtraining that leads to injury. If you're climbing 2-3 times / week (gym or outside), that should be plenty for you to make steady progress and allow for rest. For the first couple years, it's generally reccommended that you don't do any climbing-specific training (i.e. fingerboard). Instead, have fun and focus on improving technique. Pushups and other exercises that are not climbing-specific will not really help improve you'll climbing, but could benefit your general fitness and joint stability. If you cannot climb at least twice a week, then I believe hanging on a fingerboard, a few large climbing holds, or a bar could be useful if done very cautiously. If you can use a bar, don't do a lot of pullups. Rather, try hanging with your elbows bent at 90 degrees, then 45, then almost straight (but not locked) - hold each position for about 10 seconds or whatever is challenging (you can off-weight some onto one foot on a stool if otherwise too difficult). Also, once warmed up, instead of wrapping your hands entirely around the bar, partially unwrap to hang just on your fingers. As you hang towards your finger tips (again, be careful not to go too far towards tips), you could hang for relatively short repetitions (like 5-10 sec, rest 3 sec, do 5-10 repetitions, 3 sets) to improve strength or hang for longer (like 30 sec - 1 min) to improve endurance (remember, keep elbows slightly bent). If anything starts to hurt at all, back off / quit. Again, a beginner should only consider something like this if they they can't climb regulary. If that is the case, try is for a few weeks, then rest for a week, etc. It's pretty mundane; not nearly as fun as actual climbing.

(This post was edited by elmayimbe on Sep 26, 2011, 11:14 AM)

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Post edited by elmayimbe () on Sep 26, 2011, 11:14 AM

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