Forums: Climbing Information: Climbing History & Trivia: Re: [skiclimb] Greatest Mountaineering Feat By An American?: Edit Log


Oct 5, 2011, 8:31 AM

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Re: [skiclimb] Greatest Mountaineering Feat By An American?
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The sourdough expedition that was the first to climb Denali gets my vote. Four totally green guys traveled hundreds of miles through grizzly infested wilderness and swamp and climbed it on a bet.

"The climbers did not use ropes because as Taylor said later ‘We did not need them.’ This was typical of the Sourdoughs’ style. With the exception of the fourteen-foot flagpole, they choose to travel light."

Yeah....they lugged a 14 ft spruce pole to the top with them Shocked so they could put the American flag up and leave a testament to their climb.

"The summit party consisting of Taylor, Anderson and McGonagall set out at 3.00 a.m. - a true Alpine start. For some reason or other Lloyd had returned to Willows Camp: he may have been suffering from altitude sickness. Without the protection of a rope the three climbers surmounted the Karstens Ridge, traversed the Harper Glacier and scaled a steep couloir since known as the Sourdough Gully. Not far from the summit McGonagall stopped explaining later, ‘No, I didn’t go clear to the top. Why should I? I’d finished my turn carrying the pole before we got there. Taylor and Pete finished the job. I sat down and rested, then went back to camp.’ As with Lloyd he may have been suffering from altitude sickness. The other two, Taylor and Anderson, climbed on still lugging the flagpole. At 3.25 p.m. on April 3rd, 1910 they were standing on the North Peak. They had made the summit push from 11,000 feet (3352m). Encumbered with the flagpole they climbed more than 8,000 feet (about 2500m) and then returned to their camp site in eighteen hours. An extraordinary feat of mountaineering."

Nothing done in this day of goretex, ropes, and weather forecasts will ever impress me this much.

(This post was edited by dynosore on Oct 5, 2011, 8:34 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by dynosore () on Oct 5, 2011, 8:33 AM
Post edited by dynosore () on Oct 5, 2011, 8:34 AM

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