Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior: Edit Log




gblauer
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Oct 9, 2011, 8:09 PM

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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior
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Avoiding the holiday crowds at the Gunks: Hitting the "Q"

With guests in from Arizona and Mexico (Lori, Manny and Jaime), Mitch and I wanted to show them great Gunks climbing. We knew the crowds would be outrageous this weekend at the gunks. The weather was stellar (80's, full sun) and everyone came out to get in their last climbing before the end of the season.

Lori, Manny, Jaime, Bett and I climbed in the Trapps on Thursday and Friday. We hit many of the classics in the Uberfall (and beyond) and enjoyed the fact that we didn't wait for any climbs.

While Jaime lead two pitches of Betty, Manny and I ran up The Blackout. It's one of my new favorites. The Blackout, is not exactly a "hidden" gem, but a gem none the less. It's next to Betty and offers a wide variety of fun climbing. Jaime lost his way Betty P2 which gave Manny and I enough time to jump on Classic and Jackie. Gotta love late Friday afternoons at the Gunks...no lines...woo hoo!

On Friday we hit the Mac wall. Jaime lead Three Pines and I am especially happy to say that I finally followed Mother's Day Party clean. For whatever reason, that brown face has always stymied me. Not this time...I got my feet high, hit the undercling with my left hand and threw for the crimps with my right. I stuck it and enjoyed the jug haul the rest of the way to the anchors. I firmly believe that all my sessions with the personal trainer are paying off, my increase in strength has improved my climbing.

We knew Saturday was going to be crazy in the Trapps. No one wanted to get up early to secure a parking spot in the Trapps so we decided to go to Bonticou and pick out lines and just climb them. In Gail's world, that kind of climbing is unheard of. Gail likes to read the guide book(s), Mountain Project, RC.com and triangulate all information about a climb before attempting said climb. For whatever reason, my guests inspired me to be more adventurous. So, off to the Q to pick out some lines we went.

Day 3: We climbed a sweet face to the left of the yellow blazed scramble. Not the first face you come to, keep heading across the boulders to the second face. The rock quality was great and you can lead multiple lines up the face.


Here is a photo of Lori enhoying the friction:



Here is a shot of Jaime, leading one of the stellar face climbs:



A shot of me near the top of the face. Man the rock had awesome friction! There was actually a tree with rings and slings at the top of this face.



We also set up a TR on a very fun climb (10+), complete with campus moves, a jam, a hand foot match and a tough rock over. This is Manny making it look easy (I found it burly and fun, not sure I would lead it!)




Day 4: We picked a wall that looked very good, far right of the scramble. We scrambled in (it's hard to scramble when you are carrying two racks in your pack) and picked out two lines. An easy looking line pretty much straight up to a large ceiling and then a traverse to top out. Here is my line:



Manny picked out a climb that looked much like the Dangler. Off we went. I had an easy time up to a large boulder below the roof, then things got a little more thoughtful. On top of the boulder was a lot of loose boulders and junk. I had to be very careful picking my way up the climb and getting to the ceiling without killing my belayer. While I was not sketched, I was very mindful and deliberate. The traverse/exit was very different from what i was expecting, but it was really rather mild once you figured out the gear and started making the moves. It was uber exposed! Lots of fun to top out on Bonticou and surprise the tourists walking around on top. I TR'd Manny's climb, it was very fun, juggy, exposed and solid rock quality. He could not go the Dangler way...it had a distinct lack of gear. The climb lead him right through fun jugs and lots of exposure. Here is Manny belaying me as I top out:




We went back to the Trapps so that Jaime could lead something a bit harder than Betty and Three Pines. Jaime is a 12+ sport climber, but a newish trad leader. I wanted him to do the Bunny roof, but there was someone just starting up the climb when we got there (530ish). Ken's was open, it protects extremely well, so we put Jaime on Ken's. He climbed it in fine style and probably placed 12 pieces of gear in 50 feet. Why not? He was practicing and his gear was super. It was a great way to wrap up Jaime's first trip to the Gunks. Here is Jaime leading Ken's:




I just finished a great 5 days of climbing (Weds-Sunday) and am a bit sad to see the leaves changing. Our Gunks season is about to morph into ice season.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Oct 12, 2011, 10:24 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 9, 2011, 8:15 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 6:23 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 6:25 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 1:58 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 2:07 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 2:20 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 2:21 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 11, 2011, 3:16 PM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Oct 12, 2011, 10:24 AM


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