Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [weekendbolter] Wave Bolts?: Edit Log




mattm


Oct 28, 2011, 5:48 PM

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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640

Re: [weekendbolter] Wave Bolts?
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I've used (and use) both Jim Titt's bolts and the Wave Bolt. They're damn close in performance, ease of use etc etc. I'm working on on a thorough write up of lots of fixed gear anchors but that's not done yet.

Here's the gist:

Glue: The Hilti is that awful red color. I use Epcon A7 and it's a nice grey color when cured. The key is to wipe the hole with a rag after inserting the bolt. Dripping messes are just poor form on the bolter's part. Some glues do drip more than others...

BOTH:
Are the best out there in terms of Glue Ins. Practically the same to be honest. Nothing else is close.

Bolt Product (Titt): Currently, they are formed for a 12mm hole (standard in Europe). They STAY in a 12mm hole (friction fit) just like a Wave Bolt but require Much less effort to pound in since just the last 3/4 create the friction fit. In a 1/2in hole (US standard) they don't have the friction fit and will slide out of steep holes. The US distributor is re-working the tooling here to accommodate the 1/2in hole size though so this issue will be moot soon. Only available in 304SS in the USA AFAIK. Lots of metal options if you order from Jim in Germany. Also available in larger sizes and lengths. http://www.appalachianclimbingschool.com/Bolt_Products.htm

Wave Bolt: 316SS which is nice. They're a much tighter fit in a 1/2in hole and require pounding after maybe 1 1/2in of insertion in limestone. As stated above, it is not an issue with your normal wall hammer. You can wiggle the drill for a looser fit but I don't really do that. Probably easier to do in sandstone. Available in 1/2 and 5/8in but only one length right now I think.

Glue Use: I've found that the Titt bolts require less glue than the Wave per 1/2in hole which I attribute to the larger metal volume of the Titt design in the hole. I have no idea if this effects strength at all (note that BOTH designs are stronger than anything else out there by a long shot so again, probably a moot point). BOTH designs have profiles where the glue fully locks the bolt in the hole.

Right now, I use the Titt bolts for vertical rock placements so I don't have to hammer and the Wave's for steep stuff. Once the Titt is tweaked for a 1/2in hole it really will be 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other with a few minor differences influencing your choice. If I were to pick only one, I'd probably lean to a Titt Bolt. I think the fit and finish is slightly superior to the Wave and if the US distributor makes the 1/2in fit change they'll be even better.

Both are great improvements on the old-school glue ins and are catching on in many soft(er) rock areas.


L to R: Hilti HSL, Powers 5 Piece 1/2in x 3.75, Hilti KB3 3/8x3.75in, Hilti KB3 1/2x5.5in, Wave Bolt 1/2 x 4in, Titt Bolt 12x100mm, Titt 12x150mm, Titt 16x150mm


(This post was edited by mattm on Jul 19, 2012, 8:01 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mattm () on Oct 28, 2011, 6:01 PM
Post edited by mattm () on Oct 28, 2011, 7:32 PM
Post edited by mattm () on Nov 17, 2011, 9:42 AM
Post edited by mattm () on Jul 19, 2012, 8:01 AM


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