Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [Wavebolt] Wave Bolts?: Edit Log




USnavy


Oct 30, 2011, 5:45 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2650

Re: [Wavebolt] Wave Bolts?
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Wavebolt wrote:
ACJ wrote:
I've seen and climbed on plenty of these already. Honestly, I think they look like crap at the crag. I've never seen one that didn't have that trashy homemade looking red/pink glue oozed out of it.

It's good to know they are credible, cause I've felt a bit sketched out clipping them!

I'm not the one out bolting, but I definitely feel as though aesthetics are high on my list. I prefer the look of a traditional bolt or the other glue ins, these just don't do it for me.

Regarding the strength, in our testing the Wave Bolts are easily over twice as strong (i.e. resistance to failure) as a 1/2 X 4 3/4 inch Powers/Rawl bolt, for both shear and tension.
The rated mechanical breaking strength of a 1/2" Power-Bolt is 55 kN in shear and 49 kN in tension and I have verified the accuracy of those ratings in pull tests in hard colbalt basalt. On your website you said you were able to apply 9100 lbs. in tension to your test bolt. So its rated for 40 kN, which not only is nowhere near twice as strong as a 1/2" Power-Bolt, itís not even as strong as a 1/2" Power-Bolt. I understand the bolt did not fail at 40 kN. However you stopped the test and you can only claim what you truly know and have tested, so that's 40 kN.

Now I watched your video and saw that the two 1/2" Power-Bolts were deforming under the pull test. However that is nowhere near an appropriate comparative test regarding the ultimate failure strength between of bolts versus the Power-Bolt. You are testing those bolts in soft RRG sandstone that likely has a compressive strength below what Powers says the Power-Bolt is appropriate to be used in. Additionally, you are comparing the pull out strength of the bolts in sandstone after the bolt has deformed, not the actual breaking strength. Bolts in the climbing realm are normally rated to their mechanical breaking strength as tested in a material strong enough to allow the bolt to fail before the testing material deforms. Commercial and industrial expansion bolt manufacturers do test the pull out strength of their bolts in softer concrete, but they denote this and they also normally publish their ultimate mechanical breaking strength.

In order to properly create a comparative test for your bolts and the Power-Bolt, you would need to test them in a substance that is strong enough to allow the bolt to fail under its mechanical limitations, not by pulling out of the rock as the rock severely deforms.

So making a blanket statement that your bolts are more than "twice as strong as the 1/2" Power-Bolt" is completely erroneous. You are implying that the mechanical failure strength of your bolts is twice that of the Power-Bolt which is not even remotely true.

Also you state on your website your bolts tested to twice that of the UIAA requirement for rock anchors. That statement is completely false according to your website. UIAA 123, the UIAA specification for rock anchors, says that bolts need to hold 20 kN in tension and 25 kN in shear. On your website you claim your samples tested at 35 kN in tension and 40 kN in shear. Neither of those values are twice that of the UIAA 123 specifications. It may be that the bolts are stronger than what they tested to before you stopped the test, but once again you can only claim what you know and what you have tested.

Making erroneous claims regarding your products and othersí products is unprofessional. I have no doubt your bolts are strong enough to be used for climbing, and if tested in accordance with UIAA 123, they would likely pass. I will likely buy a handful of your bolts myself. But making untested and erroneous blanket claims that your bolts are more than twice as strong as the Power-Bolt and twice as strong as the UIAA 123 requirement does not work in your favor.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 30, 2011, 5:58 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 30, 2011, 5:47 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 30, 2011, 5:48 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 30, 2011, 5:50 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 30, 2011, 5:53 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 30, 2011, 5:58 AM


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