Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [maldaly] muscle strength versus muscle volume: Edit Log




cchas


Nov 18, 2011, 10:23 AM

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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [maldaly] muscle strength versus muscle volume
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maldaly wrote:
Any formula you may have about muscle strength vs muscle volume will go right out the window when you take a look at Heidataka Suzuki. He stood about 5' 10" and weight about 100 lbs and, as anyone who has ever climbed with him would attest, he's one strong MoFo.
[image]www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/90s/index3.html[/image]

Not really,... if you consider the over-simplification of to double strength, you increase the volume by 4 times. And take a second oversimplification of volume=mass (which woukld assume equal density)... to double the strength you need to increase your mass by 4 times... a loosing proposition in climbing....maybe great for football but for gymnastics, running, climbing it doesn't do you much good.

Note for full disclosure: My PhD is in polymer chemistry and not physiology. Take the word of a human physiologist over mine.

Where it all goes wrong is that you are not taking into account nuero-muscluar adaptation, and fast versus slow twitch muscle contraction, and the fast twitch phenotype can further be broken down.

A friends PhD was on muscle phenotype adaptation to training. Her thesis made the proposal, (and is currently a subject among much debate among physiologists) that through training a phenotype can be switched. Who knows.

What I am saying is that someone can get significantly "stronger" then by purely mass gain. ie: why myself, a wimpy 148lbs/5'11" guy can do pullups with 140lb weights hanging off me (usually only 100lbs weights on a weekly basis) whereas I know weight trainers who look BIG, but have a hard time with their own weight.


(This post was edited by cchas on Nov 18, 2011, 10:30 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by cchas () on Nov 18, 2011, 10:28 AM
Post edited by cchas () on Nov 18, 2011, 10:30 AM


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