Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [maldaly] muscle strength versus muscle volume: Edit Log


Nov 18, 2011, 10:23 AM

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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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Re: [maldaly] muscle strength versus muscle volume
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maldaly wrote:
Any formula you may have about muscle strength vs muscle volume will go right out the window when you take a look at Heidataka Suzuki. He stood about 5' 10" and weight about 100 lbs and, as anyone who has ever climbed with him would attest, he's one strong MoFo.

Not really,... if you consider the over-simplification of to double strength, you increase the volume by 4 times. And take a second oversimplification of volume=mass (which woukld assume equal density)... to double the strength you need to increase your mass by 4 times... a loosing proposition in climbing....maybe great for football but for gymnastics, running, climbing it doesn't do you much good.

Note for full disclosure: My PhD is in polymer chemistry and not physiology. Take the word of a human physiologist over mine.

Where it all goes wrong is that you are not taking into account nuero-muscluar adaptation, and fast versus slow twitch muscle contraction, and the fast twitch phenotype can further be broken down.

A friends PhD was on muscle phenotype adaptation to training. Her thesis made the proposal, (and is currently a subject among much debate among physiologists) that through training a phenotype can be switched. Who knows.

What I am saying is that someone can get significantly "stronger" then by purely mass gain. ie: why myself, a wimpy 148lbs/5'11" guy can do pullups with 140lb weights hanging off me (usually only 100lbs weights on a weekly basis) whereas I know weight trainers who look BIG, but have a hard time with their own weight.

(This post was edited by cchas on Nov 18, 2011, 10:30 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cchas () on Nov 18, 2011, 10:28 AM
Post edited by cchas () on Nov 18, 2011, 10:30 AM

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