Nov 29, 2011, 12:51 AM
Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Again, I come from a predominantly crack climbing area: Vedauwoo. I know that while 5.11 crack climbing is similarly difficult in terms of technical and physical demands, they require vastly different technical skills. So that means gear protected face climbing to get better at face climbing. And in Colorado, that means either runout granite slabs (or runout sandstone slabs in Eldo and the Flatirons) if you're interested in improving your face climbing skills. I actually looked, in terms of good routes in the 5.11 range in Colorado, the crux is either crack climbing, or runout.
Also, when you start the day by projecting, you quickly lose your taste for climbing. I mean, if my two options were to keep dealing with runouts or going bolt-to-bolt on everything if I eventually wanted to sport climb at a high level, I might quit climbing. That sucks, period. Until I can at least send the warmup without falling, I wouldn't want to climb at that area, and while I don't speak for all climbers, I do know that I speak for a large number of them.
If you don't want it bad enough...
I think a better solution is to avoid under 5.10 sport routes if you think they all suck.
I've climbed in your neck of the woods, Foster Falls, Sand Rock, the creek, all over north Carolina. I know of several excellent below 5.10 routes.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Nov 29, 2011, 3:18 AM)