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Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [lena_chita] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts: Edit Log




johnwesely


Nov 29, 2011, 7:08 AM

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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5320
Re: [lena_chita] Lichenness Stripped of Bolts
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lena_chita wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
You are wrong. Noobs are just bad at judging quality. It is like you saw someone eating MacDonalds and didn't try to stop them! I can't imagine you wouldn't do that. It is up to more experienced climbers to set the standards for quality. In the end, it is best for everyone because the noobs will not have to be embarrassed about climbing low quality routes once they gain more perspective.

You really don't know anyone who has been climbing for a long time and is not a n00b, but is only climbing 5.10?

While it is true that n00bs are bad at judging quality, my point was that stronger climbers are guilty of a grade bias when judging quality.

Ask a 5.14 climber how many of those 5.11/5.12s that YOU rated 5 stars are 5 star routes in their opinion, compared to all the 5.13s and 5.14th that they have done, and their opinion would likely be "meh, not very many".

Really, look at your own log, you can see the bias there. Every 5.12 route you have ever climbed is 5 stars, really?

I am very easily excited by rockclimbing, so I tend to give routes I like 5 stars. I like lots of sub 5.10 routes, but almost every sub 5.10 sport route is a pile.

Edit: I also do not ever get on routes that are not highly recommended. It is sort of embarrassing to be seen climbing lame routes. You can do it if you want.


(This post was edited by johnwesely on Nov 29, 2011, 7:13 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by johnwesely () on Nov 29, 2011, 7:13 AM


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