Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [donwanadi] Anchoring a belayer: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Dec 23, 2011, 7:29 PM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [donwanadi] Anchoring a belayer
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a few comments

- on single pitch anchor the belayer down low if you want a shorter catch ... when the climber gets high enough and if there are no addtional ledges, simply get them to unclip the biner anchor from their harness if you want a dynamic belay at that point...

- you can also anchor them in and use biners at different lengths on the cord, so that she can unclip or reclip then depending on the situation ... for example, if the bolt is 15 feet off the ground, and you can anchor directly at the ground ... the cord can be tied off to around 14 feet, and you can put a biner at 1 foot (very static belay), another halfway and tie her in full length ... as you go up you can get her to unclip the biners or reclip them should you encounter ledges ... helps if they are color coated ..

- what you can also do if you want a variable length ground anchor is use part of an old rope and use a prussic or kleimheist so that the belayer can adjust how tight that anchor is ...

- use an assisted locking device ... yeah we all know that even little girl should be able to use an atc to catch a 300+lb guy, blah blah blah ... but should the lighter person get slammed into a bolt, or something else ... its IMO safer to have an assisted locking than not in this case

- a helmet and gloves for the lighter belayer may be a good idea should the possibility exists of them hitting anything when flying up

- position yr belayer properly ... remember she will go flying up to the first bolt ... be sure to recognize anything that she may hit on the way


- for multi, if you want a more dynamic belay and are not worried about the start of a pitch, you can get yr belayer to tie in long with a munter mule to increase the length of the anchor ... the same technique can be used in cases where a fall off the belay may be very possible ... you can also tie em in long and use the above biner method to adjust the "dynamic" belay, should the ledge be big enough and yr anchor be solidly multi directional


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 23, 2011, 7:58 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:30 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:31 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:33 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:34 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:50 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:53 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:54 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Dec 23, 2011, 7:58 PM


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