Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [jamesnater] Open hand pullups On Actual Door Frame (no equipment): Edit Log


Dec 28, 2011, 3:39 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [jamesnater] Open hand pullups On Actual Door Frame (no equipment)
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Gee, thanks for all the pictures. My point was even simpler.

In reply to:
No matter your grip pull-ups use generally the same muscles no matter what. Mainly Lat, Trap, Bi, and Shoulder.

All the muscles you listed are "shoulder" muscles (at least the long head of biceps) so I'm not sure why you listed shoulder seperately, or exactly what you meant.

If you are taking about a regular, palm-forward pull-up, you would consider teres major, latissimus, rhomboids, lower traps, and brachialis more than biceps as an elbow flexor. Biceps is a powerful supinator, and there is actually a strong pronator torque during a normal pull-up. Pronator teres will pull hard. Actually, since this originates from the common flexor tendon at the elbow, pronator teres is a likely candidate for many cases of medial epicondylitis (including my own).

At the wrist, a strong co-contraction of wrist flexors and extensors will occur.

In reply to:
If youre talking about finger muscles, they dont exist, and there is no specific use of "pulleys".

Trying to give you some benefit of the doubt here. While the muscle bellies for the finger flexors do not lie in the hand, that view is short-sighted. A muscle and tendon are really two parts of the same functional unit. You cannot fire the muscle without pulling on the associated tendon.

The muscle is the winch, the tendon is the cable. They work together.

Regarding pulleys, I'm not sure what you mean by "specific use" of pulleys. But they strongly increase the torque generated by the finger flexors. They are used all the time in climbing, but crimping can easily place pathological forces upon them.

In reply to:
Your grip strength comes from your forearms and you do need to condition the tendons in your hands to avoid pain/injury.

Again, the muscle bellies are in the forearm. But to say you need to "condition" the tendons, apparently without somehow firing the muscle, is really impossible.

Lots of other muscles lie in the forearm too. Wrist flexors, wrist extensors, pronator teres, supinator, pronator quadratus all come to mind off the top of my head. If you strengthen any of these "forearm muscles" in isolation, you will have no effect on the finger flexors, and of course, you will not "condition" any finger tendons.

(This post was edited by onceahardman on Dec 28, 2011, 3:43 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Dec 28, 2011, 3:43 PM

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