Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [rannix] This look right?: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Jan 26, 2012, 1:57 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [rannix] This look right?
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im out climbing the next few days ... ill see if i get the chance to take some photos on real rock ...

if i forget ... basically you

1. put a biner/draw in each bolt ...

2. clove the rope to one bolt ... then the other with a sufficient rope length in between

3. clove or fig 8 the rope between the 2 cloves to a master point locker

4. if you want you can clove yr rope into the master point biner ... alternatively, you could have just cloved yr first biner with a bit of extra length between you and that biner, if you dont mind being offset to one side .... either way you can end up below the master point should you want ... there are also ways you can lower off the master with a munter an tie it off when belaying ....

5. i very recommend that the leader clip though a draw on one of the bolts as the first "piece" to prevent a factor 2 ...

there are many ways to build a fast anchor sport climbing ... my personal favorite is simply a sliding X on good bolts ... or using a sling and clove hitching a master biner to it as per the petzl literature below (which i highly recommend you read if you are fairly new to multipitch)



http://www.petzl.com/...-catalog-2010-GB.pdf

or you can even use yr PAS clipped to one bolt and the rope cloved to a biner on the other ... just clip the first draw to the bold with the PAS ...

etc ...

the thing to realize is that there are many "safe" and "simple" ways to build an anchor ... especially a sports anchor ... and to be able to recognize such ... and not to go off on other people's techniques unless there is a clear risk

IMO ... people who argue about simple anchors are either true experts like john long ... or people who simply dont do that much and slam other peoples anchors to compensate for their top rope toughness

no one ive climbed with who climbs well and a lot says another persons anchor is shiet unless it truly is "unsafe" ... there too busy climbing
Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 26, 2012, 2:11 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 26, 2012, 2:04 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 26, 2012, 2:10 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jan 26, 2012, 2:11 AM


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