Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Traches] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym: Edit Log


Jan 27, 2012, 8:49 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [Traches] The perils of training in a commercial climbing gym
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Traches wrote:
Sounds like your gym sucks, sorry about your luck.

It's a balance really, a crowded gym sucks for the obvious reasons, but then the owners have more money to invest back into it, whereas a quiet gym will generally be a crappier gym.

This is true. The gym i work at is goverment funded (aka we get nothing). We can barely afford the staff never mind up to date climbing holds. The advertising is none existent.. since we have 0 budget and the number turn over is 15 people at best, with 6-7 being the norm. The quality of the climbing is still very good though, so it amounts to a personal climbing gym for those who do attend. Most of the comments from people who attend their are ''we don't have to fight over routes here''.. so that kinda sums it up. Also helps that it costs almost half the price of comerical.. pluss no charge for teaching people to belay etc. Its madness how much people pay for inductions to comercial gyms.

The comercial gyms have far greater veriation in climbing holds and they can afford to hire in profesional route setters to constantly change things up. They have far better staff ratios and far better refreshment facilitys etc etc. Its no wonder more people go to such places.

However the prices are sky high and their packed full of kids and week end warriors. I only find myself going to such gyms for the bouldering and a nice change from familiar grounds. Boulder walls don't seem to get as packed since their mainly only used for the first/last 10 min of a kids party.

It could well be a culture thing, british are very polite. Mostly i can do my training on the bouldering/campusing and people will try to keep out of my way. Ofc sometimes i see that a person just has priority in what they are doing so i be respectfull and let them go on. Usualy that would be if i am traversing around the bouldering cave and somebody just started a problem a few M ahead. Is np just to have a little shake out till their done.

I never have to fight over campus/hang boards at comercial gyms. 95% of people who attend such gyms seem to have no such interest in those. I don't care to conclude why.

Ofc thats just me, im probably lucky. If it is so bad then you can altar your training so that it does not require such a large portion of walls or so. Their will be ways around it.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jan 27, 2012, 8:52 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jan 27, 2012, 8:52 AM

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