Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [rgold] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay: Edit Log


Feb 1, 2012, 10:56 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1889

Re: [rgold] Escape The Belay Sessions: Backup Belay
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rgold wrote:
Bill, I'm not sure what you mean about slack. When unwrapping, you grab the rope above your thigh, the section between the thigh and the device. Unwrapping is done almost entirely by leg action, spinning the rope off the thigh. Absolutely no slack is released into the system.

Ah, I think I see how this could work. From the beginning: leg wrap, put in something else to take the load to the anchor, re-grab and brake with the section between thigh and device, unwrap the leg, and one-handedly tie the brake rope off short to the anchor with something load releasable (prolly munter mule). Edit: well, the brake hand could probably assist with a finger or two.

rgold wrote:
Actually, this is yet another argument for the leg-wrap method. The mule knot is typically popped open, which releases an uncontrolled foot or so of slack. There is no such release with the leg wrap, so no potential for the leader to drop hard onto the prussik.

In practice, the mule knot is pretty forgiving in this situation. Once the overhand backup is released, the mule knot gives out some of that rope (assuming there's not a lot of slack in what takes the load and there shouldn't need to be since a prusik can be slid up).

rgold wrote:
Although the leg wrap, as far as I can tell, is superior in every way to mule lock-offs, the British method, in which the locking off is done on the solid side of the belay device biner rather than on the loaded rope above the device, strikes me as being easier to remember, quicker to set up, and having less fumble potential.

British method?

rgold wrote:
Perhaps there is some confusion about purpose? The leg wrap is used simply to get hands-free. Eventually, the leader's rope will have to be anchored to something, and that anchor has to be a munter mule. Fumbling is not an issue for that knot, however, since there are other things holding the leader's rope.

Agree that fumbling is not an issue for that one. Typically, for me, it's a prusik to the load strand linked to the anchor by a mariners' knot or a munter mule.

I'll respond to the harness-hang syndrome in a minute.

Bill L

(This post was edited by billl7 on Feb 1, 2012, 11:09 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 1, 2012, 11:09 AM

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