Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [Rkenney] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.: Edit Log


Feb 10, 2012, 3:24 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [Rkenney] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.
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Will be hiking in the area this weekend so am curious about the circumstances. Here's the rap descent on

"The descent requires an exposed traverse down the south spur of the summit. It's 4th class but quite exposed and you won't see the 2-bolt anchor until you are almost at the end of the spur. A double-rope rappel reaches the ground, but an intermediate rap-station consisting of 3 fixed wires and an ugly rat's-nest of webbing will allow you to reach a saddle in two rappels. From the saddle, scramble down to the west where another short rappel from a 2-bolt anchor gets you to the ground. Follow the base of the cliff all the way back to start of the climb and regain the climber's-trail for the return."

Was it that the rope got stuck when pulling on the tag line from the initial double-rope rap? But you had enough tag line to do the short rap after the scramble down to the west?

Anyone have opinions about whether one can lead back up the rap descent at a moderate grade? Of course, if folks thought that would be feasible I'd be making my own decisions when actually up there.

Bill L

Edit: Also, I'll suggest making a comment to the Sugarloaf page. Mark it as a "condition report" and it'll stay at the top of the comments (delete it later when you have your rope ... or someone posts that it's no longer there). Worked for me one time a couple summer's ago in the Sandia Mountains.

Edit 2: Found a little more clarification of the above quoted rap route in a comment by Robert Cort on the page for Left Eyebrow. Comment is copied below. Sounds like its possible to do that descent more than one way.

"There are two sets of rap anchors on the south ridge from the summit. One (easier to see) to the right, and one to the left. I've not tried the ones to the right, but have heard some strange tales (like "they appear to have been set for 70m rope", etc.) So, I suggest the ones on the left. a two rope rap gets you to the saddle, scramble down to the right and a short single rope rap gets you to the walk off. You can do the first rap with a single rope, using an intermediate anchor (3 fixed wires but somebody recently cleaned up the webbing))."

(This post was edited by billl7 on Feb 10, 2012, 4:15 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 10, 2012, 3:28 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 10, 2012, 3:47 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 10, 2012, 3:48 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 10, 2012, 4:15 PM

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