Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering: Edit Log




ceebo


Feb 12, 2012, 2:36 PM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering
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flesh wrote:
ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
If your question is do you need to power crimp frequently to boulder v12 crimp problems, the answer is yes. If you question is can you climb harder than v12 while rarely crimping, the answer is yes.

I can't crimp at a high level, v10 and up, consistently, without getting injured. Also, I've found that when I do, my fingers hurt, because they hurt, I don't climb as hard or as well. Cumatively, for me, this seems to slow progress.

I think it's a mistake for climbers new to the sport to focus on crimping, they should be 90% open or relatively easy crimping. Over time, if you pay attention to your body and not try to rush things, it will become clear whether or not your connective tissue can handle regular crimping at your limit. IMO, this takes years, maybe five or more of consistent climbing and deliberation.

Is it actualy possible a person can be at less risk of injury in full/half crimps than open hand?. Its kinde weird since i can full crimp power house moves with just a little disconfort on the end bone joints.. yet when i open hand some moves i get a very bad feeling in my finger tendons, like they are being stretched to snaping point.

This mostly occurs when im on a real body tension sloper when i will have to weight a open hand while moving the next up slowly. In comparison i can full/half crimp something under the same weight and it does nt feel like im about to rip a tendon open.

I'm sure it's possible. I know a couple peeps that have issues with open handing, they are far outweighed by those who suffer injuries from power crimping. If it hurts, don't do it, give it rest and time, and stregthen the opposing muscle groups.

Was that off training general advice or is their some spacific off training that helps avoid finger injury?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Feb 12, 2012, 4:02 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Feb 12, 2012, 4:02 PM


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