Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [Perthian] Critique top rope anchor: Edit Log




USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 9:20 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2664

Re: [Perthian] Critique top rope anchor
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The rightmost cam in the second picture looks like a bad placement. It looks like it is on top of a separated flake but its hard to tell if the blackness under the flake is just a shadow and its actually contiguous rock, but just be aware that its important to avoid placing cams on separated flakes. The rock on the top of the left and right cams also looks discontiguous in part. Its attached to the body of the cliff, however you have to be careful with stuff like that, although its physically attached to the main body, its still a flake. I have had crap like that come off just by pulling on it. Now I dont know how strong the rock is in your area, its very possible the cams would hold a reasonable amount of force, however just keep in mind that its best to look for contiguous rock when you can. The top lobes on that .75 also look like they are close to being tipped out. They only look ~25% camed. Maybe a #1 would be a bit better, or scoot the cam further back or to the side where the crack is narrower. But the left cam does look like its close to the best you could do in the rock in that photo (aside from being somewhat undercamed).


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 21, 2012, 9:37 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:24 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:26 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:27 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:30 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:36 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:36 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 21, 2012, 9:37 AM


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