Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [USnavy] Critique top rope anchor: Edit Log




Partner j_ung


Feb 21, 2012, 10:52 AM

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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18689

Re: [USnavy] Critique top rope anchor
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Offhand, I see several errors, which alone might not be big deals, but add up to a shoddy anchor.

1. It's way too complicated. You can build this anchor with the cams, the biners and the static rope, eliminating the relative low abrasion resistance of the cordalette and the girth-hitched sling around the tree.

2. Given that the static rope arm of the anchor will stretch far more than the tree side, the tree held virtually 100% of your load. This is common when one anchor arm is significantly longer than the other, regardless of the materials you use.

3. Neither cam looks all that great. You might have a rock quality issue on the right one, and the left one is looks tipped out.

4. The biners aren't past the edge, and it's not clear to me that they ever ended up stretching past it.

5. Even if the biners did stretch past the edge, you left that poor cordalette to deal with the abrasion.

6. Your master-point biners are not reversed and opposed. They're opposed, but not reversed, which is could be even more problematic considering number 4, above.

Of lesser importance...

7. Spectra slings aren't as forgiving of girth hitches as some other materials. This problem is made worse by number 2 above, which places virtually all of the load on that one arm.

8. Your knots are not dressed.

Obviously, you're alive, so the anchor didn't fail. But for god's sake, don't keep building them like this.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 21, 2012, 10:52 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by j_ung () on Feb 21, 2012, 10:52 AM


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