Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: static vs dynamic training for tendons: Edit Log


Feb 24, 2012, 3:05 PM

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Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 122

static vs dynamic training for tendons
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Sorry for multiple edit :(

Found an interesting study that I thought might be of interest to some.
Study compared effects of static training ( hold the weight) with dynamic training ( move the weight) on blood supply and stiffness of patella tendon ( knee).
It showed that ST was more effective than DT in increasing the stiffness of tendon, while the blood volume of the patella tendon was greater under DT

Even though climbers don't use their knees that much it would be reasonable to assume that something similar would hold for hand tendons.

Here is the ST protocol:
70% of Maximal Voluntary Contraction (MVC) 10 times 15 seconds each, 30 seconds rest in between.
For 12 week study, MVC was reevaluated each 4 weeks.

80% of Max, 5 sets of 10 reps ( 1s up 3s down ), rest 1 min inbetween.

Here is the study

(This post was edited by amarius on Feb 24, 2012, 3:25 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by amarius () on Feb 24, 2012, 3:21 PM
Post edited by amarius () on Feb 24, 2012, 3:25 PM

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