Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [JimTitt] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt: Edit Log


Feb 25, 2012, 12:30 AM

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Re: [JimTitt] Opinion on TR Self Belay w/ Petzl Shunt
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JimTitt wrote:
While increasing the impact force is one factor the main reason to dump the sling is it puts the Shunt right where you tend to grab the rope in a fall, not so good an idea.

Yes, here is the latest Shunt for rope access statment from Petzl.

Petzl comments on TR soloing with their various products.

snoboy wrote:
healyje wrote:
As a technical aside, and as Jim says, lose the sling. That's a really bad idea and the suggestion to pair that extended sling arrangement with a static line borders on frightening. The whole point is to do TR soloing, not setting up situations where you are essentially taking short lead falls on the device, which is what you'd be setting yourself up for with the sling extension arrangement.

I'm not sure it's as a bad as you think it is. Thousands of rope access technicians have used Shunts at the end of 1-2m lanyards (usually dynamic) on static (gasp!) rope for years as a back up device. Of course they are usually very careful to never get into a greater than FF1 situation with this rig.

I've done plenty of rope access work as both an arborist and construction worker and find this a less than compelling argument on a number of fronts. First, in this application of the Shunt I don't use it in a leashed/drag configuration by itself, but with a mini traxion on the belay loop as well just because I don't believe in the Shunt enough to take lead falls onto it which I consider a lousy application of the device.

Second, falling in rope access work is never a good idea and is avoided at all cost. I rope-solo fairly close to my limit so I do fall a lot while doing it where as I've never fallen while working. The fall frequency again puts the device at risk in this application.

So regardless of how often or how many people do rope access work with Shunts I've never been a fan and always either paired it with another device or kept it on my belay loop or a.p. And to be honest, I pretty much only do 'TR soloing' in the context of multipitch free lead rope-soloing seconding my pitches. Having done thousands of pitches that way over the years I'm so used to it that for any real TR soloing I'd probably just keep using my Eddy as I always have versus rigging any of these fancier dedicated, hands-off TR solo systems, but I can see why people do it.

(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 25, 2012, 1:12 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Feb 25, 2012, 12:31 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Feb 25, 2012, 12:33 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Feb 25, 2012, 1:10 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Feb 25, 2012, 1:12 AM

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