Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [stran1028] Training for the Injured Climber: Edit Log




Jnclk


Feb 28, 2012, 12:57 PM

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Registered: Nov 21, 2007
Posts: 89

Re: [stran1028] Training for the Injured Climber
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Dave Macleod has some useful info on pulley injuries on his site. According to the book on climbing injuries, "One Move Too Many", the protcol for a single pulley tear is four weeks off. However, A3 injuries commonly involve A2 tears as well. The vast majority of doctors including orthos know very little about these injuries.

I ruptured my A4 in mid December and was climbing again within a month. I'm about ten weeks out and am pulling hard again. It is imperative that you avoid the crimp grip. Use the open handed grip only. Taping has limited value in pulley support, but it can help keep your finger straight so that you don't crimp and overload the healing tissues. Try not to be too anxious about your upcoming trip, there will be others. Give it some time it will heal. Good luck.


(This post was edited by Jnclk on Feb 28, 2012, 12:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Jnclk () on Feb 28, 2012, 12:59 PM


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