Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Marylandclimber] Hang Board Negatives?: Edit Log




bandycoot


Mar 3, 2012, 8:01 AM

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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Re: [Marylandclimber] Hang Board Negatives?
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I'm not an expert, but here's what I've gathered:

Do you mean start arms fully bent and then lower? If so, of course it will help with pullups and arm strength. I'm not even sure why you're asking that. It's probably most helpful if you can't do many pullups or want to do more in a set where you've done pullups to failure. It's also a good way to train for one arm pullups along with offset pullups.

If by doing it on a hangboard you mean off the small holds that challenge your grip strength, I'd say NO. If by using a hangboard you mean on the jugs at the top, I don't see why not outside of the fact that some setups will result in your forearms against the board which means your body is leveraged out away from the board increasing torque and difficulty.

The reason I wouldn't do this on the smaller holds of a hangboard is that you're adding dynamic movement into something that is already maxing out an injury prone part of your body - your fingers. There's a reason it's called a hangboard. It's not a pullup on the little edges board. Train your pullup strength and finger strength in different exercises or you won't be efficient at either and you'll be more likely to be injured.

Josh


(This post was edited by bandycoot on Mar 3, 2012, 8:04 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bandycoot () on Mar 3, 2012, 8:04 AM


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