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Re: [amarius] Top rope fall analysis w/ strain gauge analyzer:
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jt512
Mar 14, 2012, 6:22 PM
Views: 16417
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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amarius wrote: FF=0 is equal to static loading.
No, it isn't. A fall factor of 0 is a fall. It occurs when you fall on a rope with no slack and no initial tension—for example, an idealized top rope fall. Hooke's Law predicts that the maximum impact force on the climber will be two times his weight.
In reply to: As a matter of fact, if one examines the Force vs time over longer period, the one with force oscillation, observation that the loading settles around 300lb is quite obvious, with swings to above ~325 and below 250. Why 300lb, and not 320lb?
The simplest explanation would be because of friction between the rope and the top carabiners.
In reply to: Adding rope over the couple of carabiners friction doesn't change the final static loading on the anchor . . .
Yes it does. It reduces the tension in the rope on the belayer's side of the anchor.
In reply to: Hope this helps
Hope springs eternal.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 14, 2012, 6:24 PM)
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Post edited by jt512
() on Mar 14, 2012, 6:24 PM
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