Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [healyje] Not reaching anchor on lead climb: Edit Log


Mar 17, 2012, 1:49 PM

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Registered: Mar 11, 2002
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Re: [healyje] Not reaching anchor on lead climb
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healyje wrote:
bigo wrote:
Leave a biner and lower. There is no good reason to leave an entire draw.

There is a good reason and that reason is a beginner shouldn't be screwing around trying swap gear and the rope, it just opens the door to bad things happening. Let a more experienced partner go up and do it.

If there's one thing I know after this many years of climbing is there are a remarkably endless number of ways to screw up the simplest thing - beginners shouldn't tempt fate no matter how trivial the operation may seem on the surface.

You of course are entitled to your opinion, but I thought you did not sport climb? The times I have been to beacon rock, the perma gumby to climber ratio seemed a little high. Perhaps you have a skewed opinion.

I would argue anyone that is leading a route should have enough climbing experience to clip a biner. I am sure there are people who can 'screw up even the simplest task', but I do not see that as a reason to provide overly conservative advice. To say the standard for bailing off a sport route for beginners is to leave an entire draw is a bit dramatic IMO.

How do you recommend a beginning leader cleans a route? What operations should a beginner do? When is a beginner not a beginner any longer?

edit to say I see vinnie essentially beat me to my own post... :)

(This post was edited by bigo on Mar 17, 2012, 1:52 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bigo () on Mar 17, 2012, 1:50 PM
Post edited by bigo () on Mar 17, 2012, 1:52 PM

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