Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [mikejungle] Finger and forearm training and gear: Edit Log




danger


Mar 18, 2012, 1:34 AM

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Registered: Apr 8, 2010
Posts: 17

Re: [mikejungle] Finger and forearm training and gear
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Yeah you can do stuff.

The best thing you can do is actually core stuff like others have mentioned, dynamic stretching and/or yoga/pilates type of things to improve your flexibility and usable strength.

A healthy diet is always good. And along with a regular exercise routine of some sort may help you shed unwanted pounds if you have any. Being lighter will help you climber better, and also put less stress on your tendons.

Sleeping better will help you climb better and improve faster as your muscles and tendons heal in your sleep.


And actually the most useful thing you can do as you're progressing is injury prevention exercises.
such as the ones on the nicros training site: http://www.nicros.com/training/

The reason everyone is telling you to just stick to climbing is because climbing is the most efficient and best training for climbing, but also that focussing too hard on getting better can set you up for injury which will set you back A LOT longer than not training enough.


By doing injury prevention exercises you can train your antagonist muscles, prevent muscular imbalances and you will set yourself to be a stronger climber in the long run because your friends are going to rupture their pulleys as they race to V5 in a few months and you will be fine because you're balanced, you're stretched, and as healthy as you can be for climbing.

The main things you can work on:
In the Gym with dumbbells or elastic bands:
different kinds of Shoulder exercises to increase shoulder stability and prevent rotary cuff injury. Work all heads of the deltoid and do some dynamic stretching beforehand to improve range of motion.

Pushups/ tricep work to train your major antagonist muscles(pusing instead of just pulling) and prevent elbow tendonitis - which strikes almost every climber who doesnt do this.

Rice bucket training as outlined here http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...s/view/way-iron-fist to train your finger flexors and hand antagonist muscles. (yes, There are other training tools for this they are just more expensive and awkward.)

I personally also do one legged pistol squats which is body-weight exercises that i believe improves knee stability and balance. since it's body weight it's fairly useful, similar to a high step and wont cause me to put on a lot of useless thigh weight.


(This post was edited by danger on Mar 18, 2012, 10:12 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by danger () on Mar 18, 2012, 10:12 PM


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