Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [jam3s_] Belaying Directly from Belay Loop: Edit Log




USnavy


Mar 18, 2012, 2:24 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2664

Re: [jam3s_] Belaying Directly from Belay Loop
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jam3s_ wrote:
I did ask why and he said there were three advantages which were:

1) The belay loop is static and by belaying off a figure 8 you got the advantage of the dynamic loop.
I am surprised no one has caught this yet. Clipping into the figure eight loop that runs through your tie in points is extremely dangerous, maybe even a death sentence. The figure eight knot is extremely weak when loaded perpendicular to the knot. Basically what you are doing is loading the knot just like the figure eight version of the EDK knot which is well know as being a death sentence, in fact, at least one person died doing that. So basically, never clip anything into the figure eight loop that runs through your tie in points.

notapplicable wrote:
[Rant]
Using one or the other by itself is fine and can be more or less advantageous depending on individual anchor construction.

Clipping into the belay loop by itself is fine. Clipping into the figure eight knot is extremely dangerous for the reason I just explained above. Never clip anything into the figure eight loop!!!

Look here: http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

Notice the flat figure eight pull tests. This guy was able to get the figure eight to capsize with as little as 110 lbs! Considering how much tail the knot eats when it capsizes, you could find yourself completely untied after a single capsize!


(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 18, 2012, 2:35 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 18, 2012, 2:25 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 18, 2012, 2:31 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 18, 2012, 2:35 AM


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