Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [rgold] Belaying Directly from Belay Loop: Edit Log


Mar 18, 2012, 11:39 AM

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Re: [rgold] Belaying Directly from Belay Loop
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rgold wrote:
Whenever I am tied to an anchor, I always clip the belay device to the "figure-8 loop," which is to say the loop of rope which is the part of your tie-in knot that threads through the harness. The idea is to transmit the load directly to the anchor via the tie-in, rather than subject the harness to various opposing pulls and the belayer to unanticipted twists.

(Since I use double ropes, the device is clipped to both tie-in loops, which happen to be bowlines, not figure-eights.)

I learned the idea many years ago from BD engineer Chris Harmston, whose posts to rec.climbing contained some of the most informed opinions I've read anywhere.

The idea seems strange to people in this country, but it is fairly common in the UK---see for example, the article on the subject at, which also has pictures to clear up any possible confusion here about what is meant.

But why would this be taught to a person who i assume is learning to climb single pitch indoor on bolts?. Its nothing close to trad anchor situation.

OP, did the leader top belay you after he reached the top or something?.. it could make more sence.

Or was the guy simply giving you info on how people do things in a situation you did not realy need to know about their and then?.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Mar 18, 2012, 11:41 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Mar 18, 2012, 11:41 AM

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