Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Bouldering: Re: [gblauer] Improving in your 40s and later: Edit Log


Mar 31, 2012, 4:09 AM

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Re: [gblauer] Improving in your 40s and later
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I didn't start getting into climbing until 50 and then got obsessed. In the first couple years I tore the A2 pulley tendon in various fingers several times. Take it easy on the crimps, deadpoints, dynos etc. Tendons gain strength much slower then muscles (especially in the 40+ crowd) so it's easy to injure them.

Get a pair of rock rings or hangboard and use judiciously. You need to be extremely careful using it. Using a length of dive tubing with a foot loop tied into it to take some weight off, or a pulley system that you can add weight to connected to your harness (via the pulley) can help you adjust the force on the hangs to a percentage of your body weight so you do't tweak fingers. Eventually you'll even be able to add weight.

Technique is king as has already been mentioned (get a coach and read SSC and "9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes" by MacLeod). I'm still making improvements in my climbing at 61 but it's mainly through continuing to improve my technique.

Train oppositional muscles so you don't get an imbalance of muscles which can lead to injury.

Rest was also mentioned. Listen to your body. Everybody's different. You'll never be able to keep up with the intensity of the 20 somethings but you'll gain endurance with time. Rest days are a must.

(This post was edited by naitch on Mar 31, 2012, 12:29 PM)

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Post edited by naitch () on Mar 31, 2012, 12:29 PM

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