Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [majid_sabet] Has a rope ever broke with no extenuating circumstances?: Edit Log




petsfed


Mar 31, 2012, 5:30 PM

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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8589

Re: [majid_sabet] Has a rope ever broke with no extenuating circumstances?
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majid_sabet wrote:
petsfed wrote:
I'm 180lbs, and I'm fuckin' heavy for a climber. 100 kg is 220 lbs, which means a full rack and a full pack on a heavy dude so while the standard makes sense as it is overengineered, you're high if you think 12kn is approximately 12g for the average climber.

I guess our Jimmy does not know that climbers do carry 20/30 lbs of gear on them so the 100/110kg is a reasonable weight to testing

Expedition usage is NOT an accurate reflection of "average" usage, so the claim that 12g is equal to 12kN for the average climber is clearly false. If they wanted to minimize the possibility of injury to the average climber (not some worst case scenario), they'd set it at around 9kn, if not lower.

All of that said, the human body can actually handle 12 kn for very brief periods of time as its not necessarily the acceleration so much as the duration, and there's no handy rule of thumb to figure that one out.


(This post was edited by petsfed on Mar 31, 2012, 5:34 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by petsfed () on Mar 31, 2012, 5:34 PM


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