Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [Rkenney] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.: Edit Log




billl7


Apr 6, 2012, 1:10 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [Rkenney] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.
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Was up there a week or so ago. Bad news first, I ended up cutting off about 17 meters. Otherwise, I'd say there really wasn't any way at the end of that day you were going to get the rope down no matter how many waves you sent up the rope.

The blue marks in the next photo shows the westerly rap route (copied from MP.com). I would have guessed this is what you started to rap but then swung climber's right and back towards the saddle behind the ridge But your note sounded like you continued on the blue rap route. Maybe later winds took the tag-line end around towards the saddle? The yellow arrow shows where a ledge is that held the high point of your rope after the pull. To get to the ledge, my partner at the southerly anchors had to lower me about 30 feet; the southerly anchors are behind the ridge and provide a direct rap to the saddle.


The below photo shows the ledge the rope was draped over after I coiled up the free end of the rope. Before coiling, the rope end coming from the tag line ran up from the crack on the left (inner) side of the ledge, then ran left to right across the top of the ledge (as shown in part), and then all of the coiled rope was dangling down from the right (outside) edge of the ledge:


To the left (inside) of the above ledge, there is a crack. Here is a shot at the rope inside the crack.


From inside the crack, the rope went down, away, and around towards the saddle:


I couldn't shake free the rope end that went down and around towards the saddle. We were running out of daylight so I cut the rope, coiled what I had and climbed back up to the rap anchor.

Here's the rope coiled up after I brought it back to the campground - I estimate there is about 43 meters of it.


To get all the rope, the only other thing I could have tried would have been at the ledge to coil up the part I had and toss it towards the saddle and hope for the best. I have not idea if that would have worked.

On the way down from the saddle, before the last short rap, here's looking up at the tag line:


If you'd like the remainder of your rope that I have, send me a message. Wish I'd been able to say I got all 60 meters.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Apr 6, 2012, 2:15 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Apr 6, 2012, 1:15 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Apr 6, 2012, 1:21 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Apr 6, 2012, 2:15 PM


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