Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [squierbypetzl] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.: Edit Log


Apr 8, 2012, 8:43 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [squierbypetzl] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.
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squierbypetzl wrote:
healyje wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Dude, nobody is forcing you to post here. Feel free to piss on somebody elses's picnic.

Not when threads like this one convey to less experienced people the wrong impression, which in this case is that there is any disadvantage to using a couple of non-locking biners or draws as a TR anchor.

Having the rope can come free from the anchor is a pretty significant disadvantage in any system, and if cracklover proved it can happen then his claims warrant some looking into.

Personally, I've always used and will very likely continue using 2 opposed non-locking (non wire gate) biners on an equalized cordelette for any toprope anchors I have to set up. Knowing that it's not only possible but plausible for the rope to come free in certain scenarios can only make me safer and therefore a better climber and instructor.

You'd think that climbing would get smarter over the decades, but instead it seems to be getting dumber the better the gear gets. The perceived prioritization around safety seems to be getting completely ass-backwards as time goes on instead. Look, there is just no circumstance where rope is going to come out of two opposed non-locking biners without doing something stupid and ill-advised in the setup. The whole thread is a 'the sky is falling sort of deal' and a real disservice to those who don't know any better.

(This post was edited by healyje on Apr 8, 2012, 8:44 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Apr 8, 2012, 8:44 PM

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