Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [infrared] Diet, recovery time, strength (beginner questions): Edit Log


Apr 12, 2012, 8:24 AM

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Re: [infrared] Diet, recovery time, strength (beginner questions)
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infrared wrote:
Okay, so I'm REALLY skinny. That's part of my worry about all this.

I try to consume complete proteins (eggs, soy, whey primarily). I drink a whey-based protein powder twice a day since it is not always feasible to get enough protein in that day for whatever reason. I tried a soy-based powder but found it tasted absolutely awful. Tempeh is my main source for this now.

You touched on my main question which was: what is the balance between efficient training and overtraining? Is training while sore inherently detrimental or should I feel completely recovered before going out again? I am only able to boulder now since I have no partner and figured it would at least give me a way to develop some strength until I can find a partner. I know that sport climbing long routes and bouldering are two completely different things, but I try to incorporate more endurance type things (repeated 'climbs' up and down an easier boulder problem).

Also, any tips on warm-up? I think the last time I went to the gym I encountered the 'flash pump' which seems to be a result of improper warm-up. Currently I just do easy traversing and then some upper body and lower body stretching.

Thanks again for the help.

With respect to your diet, the amount of protein you're getting sounds just fine. Unless you're trying to do something really specific, don't fret over the diet too much.

With the overtraining question, what you probably need to pay attention to is your elbows. Elbow tendinitis is really common, particularly when you're both light and just starting out. If you start to get elbow pain, back off the training a bit. It's okay to climb if you're still a bit sore from the last time, though.

I'm essentially exactly your height and build (6'1", 145-150-ish), and a vegetarian, but 12 years older than you, and it's not held me back.

(This post was edited by styndall on Apr 12, 2012, 8:25 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by styndall () on Apr 12, 2012, 8:25 AM

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